I realize, after 18 years a part of it, that the rules of the food internet in the week before the American cooking superbowl we call Thanksgiving, dictate that everything should relate back to turkey, stuffing, or pie. But friends, we have that abundantly covered in the archives, and the newsletter. So let me tell you what I’ve been making a lot lately to feed myself what I crave, and that is sheet pans of mixed vegetables roasted until almost charred, finished with a balsamic vinegar, and studded with heavenly, salty, crispy pillows of halloumi.
Halloumi is a semi-hard, brined, salty cheese from Cyprus with a squeaky, slightly rubbery texture (when cool) and a pillowy soft texture (when warm) with crisp edges if grilled, fried, or roasted. I adore it. But, to me, the wonder of halloumi is when it’s warm, so when I see it grilled and then put into a salad that will be chilled or even at room temperature, returning it to its squeaky and less magical state, I find it a little disappointing, but I keep it to myself. Well, most of the time. Whose idea was it to give me a place to mouth off, anyway?
This sheet pan method, in which the vegetables are crowded and warm, doused in a vinaigrette keeps the halloumi tender until it reaches your plate. I’ve got a summer version of this in Smitten Kitchen Every Day, Halloumi Roast with Eggplant, Zucchini and Tomatoes that you shouldn’t miss. And this is the long overdue fall/winter edition. I’ve been making it with sweet potatoes, cauliflower, and brussels sprouts, but other hearty vegetables work great here too, even cabbage or broccoli florets. Make it with whatever you’ve got that sounds good (or needs to go), but make it for you, and soon, before we get too busy feeding everyone else.