I'm a Travel Writer Based in Paris, and This Exquisite Hotel in Champagne Is One of My Favorite Stays in France

With the recent renovation of Hostellerie Briqueterie & Spa, there is now even more reason to hop the train from Paris and visit Épernay (as if the slew of Champagne houses pouring elite bubbly wasn’t enough).

This former brick factory turned luxury hotel is the latest addition to the Beauvallon Collection Group, whose first address, Hostellerie Cèdre & Spa, is set amid the vines of Beaune, Burgundy. Founder Amaury Rostagnat aims to create intimate hotels that feel like a stylish relative’s home — perfect for those whose real estate portfolios don’t include French country estates.

I arrived in Épernay via train with my husband and toddler. After a 15-minute drive from the train to Vinay-en-Champagne, my two-year-old was running through the door of Hostellerie Briqueterie & Spa, feeling very much at home. We followed him through the salons outfitted with wooden beams, contemporary couches, and antique mirrors. I took note of the fireplace nook where a dog lounged lazily.

Every one of the 40 rooms and suites overlooks the bucolic grounds, some with grassy terraces. Our elegant Privilege room was airy and spacious, even with a baby cot. I felt the soulful curation of architect Marie Courdouan in every detail, from the expressive artwork lining the wooden shelves to the quilted headboard and hand-crafted nightstands. More than 60 furniture purveyors and artisans played a role in reviving this 50-year-old Relais & Châteaux estate. Courdouan’s vision was to “renew and reinterpret, without detracting from what already existed,” she told me.

Following a goûter of fresh fruit and cake, we spent the afternoon navigating the 10-acre property whose flourishing rose gardens drew us in with their intoxicating fragrance. The pergola covered in Virginia creepers and wild roses became our shade from the summer sun, while the maze of shrubs offered a playful running path. The meditative sound of water trickling from the garden’s fountains provided the soundtrack – a welcome contrast to the buzz of the Parisian boulevards. This feeling of pure delight followed me to the spa while the boys strolled the vast stretches of green covered in olive trees, weeping willows, and purple maples.

The indoor heated pool caught my attention even before sinking into the massage bed at one of Maison Caulières Spa’s two treatment rooms. Following a quick dip in the Jacuzzi overlooking the hotel’s ivy-clad walls, my mind and body ritual began. Skilled hands released every tight muscle with the help of signature body oil crafted by family-run Maison Caulières. Neighboring the kids’ club, which I would undoubtedly familiarize myself with, the gym’s wooden rowing machine looked enticing, but I was here for the stillness.

While the spa became my refuge and the gym my husband’s, the kids’ club fulfilled every imaginable dream of our two-year-old. Courdouan’s “colorful cocoon,” as she called it, for kids of all ages included a foosball table, play kitchen, stuffed toys, and enough crayons to satisfy any young artist’s creative visions.

We agreed that the restaurant — sleek in its redesign — exceeded our expectations. While we indulged in plates of zucchini blossoms followed by blue lobster and freshly caught fish, our budding gourmand enjoyed meat and cheese platters procured by local suppliers. We skipped the inviting velvet lounge for a nightcap, eager to wake up and recommence our rural routine with plenty of time to smell the roses.

Here’s my review of the newly renovated Hostellerie Briqueterie & Spa, which welcomes guests of all ages.

The Rooms

Ranging from 66 to 239 square feet, the only likeness between the 40 unique rooms and suites is the focus on French craftsmanship. Custom wood furnishings and modern brass fixtures against forest green and white walls nod to contemporary sophistication. The cloud-like carpets, comfy chairs, and landscape views further connect to nature. If the foliage fails to impress, switch on the TV or plan an impromptu dance party, Marshall-speaker style. 

The minimalist bathrooms with old-English faucets and hand basins on chrome pedestals proudly offer sustainable toiletries by Maison Caulières. 

To feel the earth between your toes, splurge on a Deluxe Terrace room stretching out into the gardens, or choose the Champagne or Signature Suites to accommodate a large family.

Food and Drink

French gastronomy led by a stellar local cast of producers defines the kitchen at Hostellerie Briqueterie & Spa’s restaurant, impeccably composed by Moroccan chef Nawal Rezagui. Some aromatic herbs are grown in the gardens overlooked by the defining bay window. The dinner options – including a five-course tasting menu – involve a seasonal selection of savory and sweet options from Wednesday to Sunday, with lunch served only on Sundays. The sleek space, outfitted in dark wood, crisp white table linens, and graphic curtains, converts into a more casual bistro for mid-week lunches and dinners on Mondays and Tuesdays. Reservations are not limited to hotel guests.

The breakfast scene is more rustic, with tables covered in hand-crafted Moroccan zellige tiles and wooden chairs. Set in a spacious sunlit room opening onto a terrace, the selection of pastries includes the chef’s creations, with plenty of yogurts, cold cuts, and cheeses mixed in.

There’s no lack of Champagne labels filling the bar, plus an enviable wine and cocktail menu.

Activities and Experiences

Nineteen miles away is Reims, the former residence of French monarchs, also home to Champagne houses Veuve Clicquot, Ruinart, and Taittinger. Only four miles away is Épernay, which, with its famed Avenue de Champagne, offers plenty of opportunities for tastings at leading wine producers. No fewer than 68 miles of cellars compose these UNESCO World Heritage Champagne houses and cellars. It’s only a matter of choosing which ones whet your appetite.

The Spa

The bubbles at Hostellerie Briqueterie & Spa aren’t limited to the Champagne. With an indoor Jacuzzi alongside the heated swimming pool, there’s plenty of effervescence to go around. Following a steamy hammam session, the Maison Caulières spa — the first to open in France — will blissfully reset both the mind and body. One of the two treatment rooms caters to couples for a shared sensory journey. When not getting pampered at the spa, slink into a chaise lounge in the garden, or skip the spa for an adrenaline kick at the gym, where a wooden WaterRower and treadmill will keep you in top form.

Family-friendly Offerings

The littles might enjoy Hostellerie Briqueterie & Spa just as much as their elders once they discover the well-equipped kids’ club. Board games, arcade games, and a foosball table await eager players, while a comfy couch makes for a cozy reading perch. Drawing tables cater to young artists, and a play kitchen will cook up a fantasy dish for every active toddler. Should parents sneak off to the gym or the spa, babysitting services are available upon request.

All rooms and suites accommodate babies; the restaurant offers menus for children ages 2 to 12.

Accessibility and Sustainability

Two of the rooms are accessible. On the sustainability front, Hostellerie Briqueterie & Spa’s Corporate Social Responsibility practices include reducing food waste, using eco-responsible cleaning products, decreasing plastic use, and installing rainwater collectors to water the property.

Location

The easiest way to arrive from Paris is via train to Épernay, where a hotel transfer or taxi transports you four miles to Hostellerie Briqueterie & Spa. By car, the hotel is easily accessible from the A4 (Paris-Metz) and A26 (Reims-Calais) freeways.

Access to a car helps to explore neighboring villages and stop at smaller Champagne houses scattered throughout the countryside.

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

Several exclusively priced packages, with themes including gastronomy and beauty, are available, either to use for a stay or to gift a loved one.