This Coastal U.S. Town Has Whale Sightings, Massive Glaciers, and Access to a Fjord-filled National Park

The gateway town to Kenai Fjords National Park, Seward is one of the main tourism hubs on Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula. Signs for fishing charters and scenic tours dot the buildings on one end of town (the Seward Small Boat Harbor); souvenir shops are common on the other. Visitors come by the thousands, often by way of the Alaska Railroad, to board cruise ships, see glaciers, and fulfill their dreams of watching a humpback whale breach in the wild.

But Seward is also a layered community—one where history, art, and a deep appreciation for the natural world converge to form an interesting, and evolving, narrative. The 9.2-magnitude Good Friday Earthquake devastated the community in 1964—many of its effects on the land are still apparent 60 years later—and it’s Mile 0 for the Iditarod National Historic Trail, originally known as the Seward–Nome Route.

Throughout town, work by local artists graces coffee shops, tour check-in areas, and outdoor spaces. Seward is even called the “Mural Capital of Alaska,” with around 30 bright, large-scale murals providing a pop of contrast to the oft-gray, misty mornings.

“Seward is situated within a northernmost temperate rain forest, and it can be a rainy place, but that is exactly what makes [it] unique,” Stephanie Millane, the owner of Sunny Cove Kayaking, tells Travel + Leisure. “Come prepared to embrace the rain, and you’ll have an incredible visit.” As I set out to discover the story of Seward, I packed accordingly, with my waterproof gear and warm layers in tow.

Where to Stay

Salted Roots

Travelers who want to embrace the art of slow travel in Seward should browse the various stand-alone cabin options at Salted Roots. Owned by locals Matt and KellyAnn Cope, the hospitality group has outposts in both Anchorage and Seward, but the latter was their first foray into an “anti-tourist” type of guest experience; each of the cabins is more home than hotel. The flagship glass-front A-frame can fit up to six people and shares access to the on-site sauna, fire pit, and private beachfront.

Gateway Hotel

Gateway Hotel is nothing fancy—not a lot is in Alaska—but it’s clean, comfortable, and conveniently located to Small Boat Harbor. The 74-key property opened in 2021, and it’s a solid choice for anyone spending just a couple of nights in Seward between mid-May and late October (it’s only open during the peak tourism season). A simple breakfast is included, and there’s complimentary Wi-Fi, luggage storage, and an efficient shuttle service to the Alaska Railroad Depot. The linens, bath towels, and blackout shades also receive my stamp of approval.

Harbor 360 Hotel

Harbor 360 Hotel is a year-round accommodation option that comes recommended by Millane. Its list of amenities is similar to its sibling property, the Gateway Hotel, but it also features Seward’s only hotel pool, as well as an enviable location right on the Seward Small Boat Harbor; some of the harbor-view rooms even come with private balconies.

Best Things to Do

Explore Kenai Fjords National Park on a scenic cruise.

“An absolute must-do is visiting Kenai Fjords National Park, which is largely accessible by boat,”  says Millane. ”Missing a glacier and wildlife tour is almost like missing the point of visiting Seward.” Major Marine Tours has several options for passengers, with half- and full-day tours.

Wildlife sightings include sea otters, harbor seals, sea lions, orcas, puffins, and humpback whales. While spotting the aforementioned animals is never guaranteed, glaciers are promised—I did see all of them on a cruise in early September, though. On longer tours, the passenger boats head up to Holgate Glacier and Aialik Glacier. All is quiet while the entire tour group awaits the sound of a large ice chunk breaking off from the glacier’s edge, a frequent occurrence known as calving.

Book a kayak tour or fishing charter.

Seward has something for every outdoor interest. If you’d prefer a peaceful paddle around Resurrection Bay, with river and sea otters popping up here and there, book a kayak tour with Sunny Cove Kayaking, offered May through September. Fishing charters are plentiful, and Alaska Northern Outfitters, ProFish-n-Sea Charters, and Crazy Ray’s Adventures bring guests out to the Gulf of Alaska to catch silver salmon, king salmon, and halibut.

Hike up to Exit Glacier.

“More adventurous travelers will enjoy hiking around Seward, where many of our trails lead to panoramic views of Resurrection Bay and huge glacier-carved valleys,” says Millane. Nearby hikes range from easy to strenuous.

If you’re after a relatively leisurely trek, reserve a $20 Exit Glacier shuttle ticket. The timed van brings guests to the Exit Glacier Nature Center, the only part of Kenai Fjords National Park that can be reached by car. From there, the one-mile, wheelchair-accessible Glacier View Loop Trail leads to panoramic vistas of the dynamic (and receding) Exit Glacier; you can also tack on an additional 0.6 miles with the Glacier Overlook Loop.

Tour the Alaska SeaLife Center.

Those traveling with younger kids will appreciate the hands-on educational experience at the Alaska SeaLife Center. The only permanent marine mammal rescue and rehabilitation facility in Alaska, it functions as a public aquarium as well as a space for research, education, and wildlife response. The Steller sea lions, ringed seals, and spotted seals flipping and diving in their outdoor enclosures are the true highlight of the space.

Best Restaurants

Cookery

One of Millane’s favorites, Cookery has made a name for itself both in Seward and the larger culinary community. Owner and executive chef Kevin Lane was nominated for a 2025 James Beard Award in the Best Chef: Northwest & Pacific category, and his menu features fresh oysters on the half shell, Alaskan spot shrimp and grits, and a carrot cake parfait topped with cream cheese ice cream.

Flamingo Lounge

After a busy day of hiking, kayaking, or admiring a pod of orcas from behind a pair of binoculars, bring your travel companions down to Flamingo Lounge. Billed as a “classic steakhouse with local seafood,” the restaurant is also owned by the Copes, who brought the property into its newest chapter in 2022. The menu nods to the establishment’s roots as Thorn’s Showcase Lounge—its “Bucket of Butt,” a dish featuring chunks of deep-fried halibut, was a Thorn’s staple—but this current era is a decidedly original take. If you’re in the mood for something more casual (or you can’t get a table), there are several food trucks parked right outside the restaurant.

Firebrand BBQ

You might not expect Texas barbecue in Alaska, but I can say from firsthand experience that it’s the exact kind of cuisine you’ll crave following an excursion on the water. Firebrand BBQ, owned by Texans Chad and Stephanie Higgins, operates seasonally—so you’ll need to visit between mid-May and mid-September if you want to order a plate of pulled pork, slaw, pinto beans, and potato salad. The quick, casual service at the outdoor barbecue joint is also appreciated when you’re feeling (and looking) a little worse for wear at the end of the day.

Resurrect Art Coffee House

There are a few different places to get your caffeine fix before a day of adventures in Alaska, but Resurrect Art Coffee House, open year-round, tops the list. Technically, it’s more than just a coffee shop; it’s a bakery, an art store, and a community space. It’s also housed in an old church, which dates back to the early 1900s. You can certainly order your standby drink, but I’d also encourage you to try one of the house concoctions, like the Snickers latte or a breve made with homemade brown sugar and sage syrups.

Miller’s Landing Cafe

The waterfront views are the focal point at Miller’s Landing Cafe. The local eatery is the ideal spot for a pre-paddle breakfast or dinner following a successful fishing charter. Plus, thanks to the covered deck overlooking Resurrection Bay, you can enjoy outside seating even when the frequent drizzly weather makes an appearance.

Best Shopping

Forests, Tides & Treasures

“Forests, Tides & Treasures is a great shop for gifts and outdoor gear,” says Millane. So if you accidentally forgot a raincoat or a sling bag for hiking, or you’re searching for the perfect souvenir from your Seward trip, this is the place to go.

Primrose Provisions

Millane is also fond of Primrose Provisions, a multipurpose shop that doubles as a market and wine bar (she recommends ordering the burrata plate). The concept is unique to Seward, and so is its location; you’ll shop the selection of handmade jewelry, local art, and vintage finds in the town’s original train depot overlooking Resurrection Bay.

Alaska Shop

As you walk down Fourth Avenue—the “beating heart of Seward,” as a sign in town reads—you can’t miss the Alaska Shop. Millane describes the store as a “go-to for gifts,” and you’ll find a range of crafts, mugs, T-shirts, magnets, and artwork to peruse before or after lunch at a neighboring restaurant.

The Ranting Raven

There’s no shortage of places to buy local art in Seward—you can discover many of them on a First Friday Art Walk from May through September, if your trip aligns with the monthly event. But don’t miss The Ranting Raven, a quaint stop in town for cards, stickers, stationery, and other easy-to-transport memorabilia.

Best Time to Visit

While Millane says the best time to visit Seward is relative, there’s no question the months of June, July, and August are the most popular—and, as such, the most crowded and expensive. But if you don’t mind skipping Seward’s peak whale-watching season in July and August, you’ll be able to enjoy a quieter side of the town, and one that still comes with a great deal of reasons to visit.

“I often encourage people to visit in May or June, when we have great wildlife viewing and typically nice weather, but we don’t yet have the crowds,” she says, adding that winter is also a “magical” time in Seward. “Visiting Seward in winter gives people a glimpse into life here, and you can still eat at incredible restaurants, explore Resurrection Bay on a small boat tour, take a snow machine (a.k.a. snowmobile) tour to Exit Glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park, and explore our trails on our extensive cross-country skiing trail network.” If you do travel to Seward in the shoulder season or offseason, just be sure to do your research on what is and isn’t open—and note that your transportation options may be limited. For example, the Alaska Railroad Coastal Classic train doesn’t run in the winter.

How to Get There

If you’re starting your trip in Anchorage, like I did, you have three solid options for getting to Seward: bus, car, or train. The seasonal Park Connection Motorcoach makes two trips to Seward each day in the summer—one in the morning, one in the afternoon—and the journey takes about three hours. Travelers who decide to make the drive themselves should plan for a roughly three-hour scenic road trip, although you may want to stop at places like Portage Glacier or Girdwood along the way.

While the longest of the three options (about four hours from end to end), the Alaska Railroad’s Coastal Classic train is an experience in and of itself. Running seasonally, the train leaves Anchorage at 6:45 a.m. and arrives in Seward just after 11 a.m. When booking, passengers will choose either the Adventure Class or the premium GoldStar Dome service, the latter of which includes breakfast on this particular route. The main benefit of the GoldStar Dome service, though, is access to views. The train snakes through some of the most glorious backcountry scenery, and those in the GoldStar Dome class can observe it from the glass-dome ceilings of the railcar as well as an outdoor viewing platform.

How to Get Around

Seward is easily navigable on foot; it’s only about a 20-minute walk from Seward Small Boat Harbor to the more central commercial area (where you’ll find the Alaska SeaLife Center). Most of the tour meetup areas are in Small Boat Harbor, so having your own car isn’t necessary. There’s also a free shuttle that runs on a continual 30-minute, five-mile loop during the day from May 1 to mid-September. The shuttle stops are marked throughout town with blue and white signs, and the bus has red “free shuttle” messaging.