This Medieval Village Along the French Riviera Is an Underrated Gem—and Now Has a New Hotel With 2 Pools

A seductive breeze, scented with fresh herbs, lavender, and citrus, led the way along the winding path to Le Mas Candille, where sweeping views of the bay of Cannes, the Lérins Islands, and Grasse filled the vista. A quick stroll from the medieval village of Mougins, where Pablo Picasso spent the last 12 years of his life, this discreet five-star address set an artful scene of its own.

This 20-year-old hotel ushered in a new chapter, thanks to Jean-Philippe Cartier, the founder and president of H8 Collection hotel group, who has a knack for reviving French heritage properties. Cartier teamed up with Prisca Courtin-Clarins of the Clarins cosmetics clan to make Le Mas Candille a leading beauty and wellness destination, masterfully refitted from head to toe by Franco-Mexican interior architect Hugo Toro.

Toro honored this four-and-a-half-hectare estate rich in pine and cypress trees (candille means “cypress” in the local dialect), while adding a generous dose of avant-garde design, much of it crafted by his own hand. A visit to Le Mas Candille feels like a journey to a fictional—and very glamorous—Californian Côte d’Azur.

As I arrived via a swift flight to Nice, the gray skies of Paris were replaced by the sunshine of the south. A chorus of cicadas provided the soundtrack. The gracious smiles of the staff complemented the mellow mood as I was led to my suite, where every detail of my sprawling chamber was marked by soft tones and curious collectibles by local artisans. A green carpet and matching drapes fashioned from Toro’s hand-painted artwork caught my attention as I plunged into a cushy chair in direct view of the spacious terrace. After freshening up in the bathroom, with a color palette driven by Norwegian pink marble counters and pale green walls, I set out to discover exactly how Le Mas Candille succeeded in blending Provence with California. “I wanted to give the hotel the genuine style of a Provençal mas [farm] while adding an American touch to also make it resemble a large Californian villa,” Toro shares in a press release.

The walk to The Glow House Spa by Clarins snaked along paths lush with the herbs used in the treatments. An inviting row of sun loungers alongside the heated pool offered a direct view of the valleys below. I immediately fell into a summer daydream, imagining late afternoons bronzing beneath the Mediterranean sun and exhilarating dips in the swimming pool. A gust of eucalyptus-scented steam roused me back to the autumnal afternoon as I entered the hammam. My wellness routine continued with several laps in the 82-foot-long pool, a pause in the sauna with a view of the sun illuminating the landscape, and a brave dip into the glacial plunge pool. An hour-long Precious Treatment facial using the Clarins Precious skincare range provided the main act at this holistic haven. Lathered in luxurious creams, moisturizers, and serums that enhanced my skin’s vitality, I dressed for dinner.

A statement fireplace composed of green tiles—the only remaining original feature—and a frescoed ceiling evoking olive trees set a cozy and inviting mood as soon as I entered the lounge. Alongside handicrafts collected by Toro and his mother at Provençal flea markets, dried herbs and plants elegantly exposed in green ceramic frames decorated the walls, the work of Biot-based artist Cyril Vandromme. Nearby, a well-stocked bar with bespoke wooden stools and hand-blown glass lamps set the mood for cocktails.

Named for the estate’s plentiful pine trees, the restaurant La Table des Pins sets crisp white tables for dinner and breakfast. Bold geometric carpeting is contrasted by pale green and yellow velvet seating and cherry wood walls. The vast terrace—ideal for a post-pétanque glass of rose during the warmer months—stretches into the bucolic landscape.

Satiated from a meal of impeccably prepared langoustine and scallops, I ventured to the intimate library to admire the tomes dating back to Le Mas Candille’s 2001 opoening. Beyond the bibliothèque, a backgammon board caught my interest, but I opted for several animated rounds of foosball, joined by a friend from Cannes.

The next morning, I finally discovered the Californian soul of Le Mas Candille. Palm trees gently swayed in the breeze, reflecting in an oval freshwater swimming pool—bright yellow lounge chairs with matching parasols overlooked what could almost be mistaken for the Hollywood Hills. Toro did admit, “The references are Mediterranean, mixed with Californian touches. Indeed, the property, perched high above Mougins and the old village, offers an impressive view of Grasse, reminiscent of a Hollywood hill villa.

Here’s my review of the reborn Le Mas Candille, a wellness and gastronomic sanctuary along the French Riviera.

The Rooms

The accommodations on this 18th-century olive farm are split between three buildings. From cozier 258-square-foot rooms in the Mar, many featuring terraces and garden views, to deluxe 376-square-foot suites in the Bastide with views of the valley, there are plenty of options for bedding down in comfort.

The most exclusive and expansive suites in the Villa measure up to 753 square feet and can accommodate a family of four. Every guest room’s bathroom is stocked with Clarins products.

Food and Drink

A rising star in France’s culinary circuit, chef Romain Antoine oversees the seasonal menus at both restaurants. Whether a light lunch of salade nicoise at The Pool restaurant and bar or a three-course gastronomic dinner at La Table des Pins, Antoine’s Mediterranean-inspired culinary journey is dictated by local fish and seasonal vegetables. On evenings, candles and live music set the mood at Grill by the Pool. A well-crafted selection of cocktails and herb-driven mocktails, along with wine pairings, are at hand.

Breakfast includes detox juice and a generous spread of sweet and savory French classics, available buffet-style and à la carte.

Activities and Experiences

From the pétanque court and ping pong table to the game room, plenty of activities entertain all ages, regardless of the season. Bookworms can find refuge in the well-stocked library.

Where Picasso once lived, the art world thrives, with dozens of art galleries tucked into Mougins’ narrow lanes. Dive into the female art scene at the recently opened FAMM-Female Artists of the Mougins Museum, which replaced the Mougins Museum of Classical Art. The first major European museum dedicated to female artists showcases the paintings, sculptures, and photographs by over 80 women. After visiting The Mougins Center of Photography, still and moving images will leave an impression.

Book a historic village tour with a local guide from the Mougins Tourist Office and end with lunch at the buzzing hotspot Bohème.

The Spa

A new holistic spa concept blending fitness and well-being, The Glow House Spa by Clarins offers bespoke beauty rituals to cater to every wellness enthusiast. The 4,845-square-foot space at the first Clarins-branded hotel features a fitness room and four treatment rooms, where face and body massages with plant extracts and essential oils take center stage. Collagen-boosting infrared LED regimens are also on the menu. The glow continues to the 82-foot indoor-outdoor heated swimming pool, sauna, hammam, and Kneipp cold pool.

The protocols developed exclusively for The Glow House Spa by Clarins can last from one hour to several days. (Read: Annual Clarins retreats are in the works.)

Family-Friendly Offerings

A children’s menu is on offer at both restaurants, with smaller servings for younger patrons. A kids’ club is open during the busy summer season, and there are plenty of activities for all ages in the game room.

Only the spa pool is restricted to adults.

Accessibility and Sustainability

The rooms and suites, as well as The Glow House Spa by Clarins, are ADA-compliant.

Many local plants don’t require excessive watering, and herbs from the gardens are used in the cuisine. Full-size refillable Clarins bath products throughout the property reduce plastic waste.

Location

Le Mas Candille, set in the hilltop village of Mougins, is a 20-minute drive from Nice Côte d’Azur Airport (NCE) and the city of Cannes. Renting a car offers easy access to the region.

Book Now

One of a handful of five-star hotels in the Côte d’Azur open year-round, Le Mas Candille is the ideal spot for a sun-infused wellness escape. Book your treatments at The Glow House Spa by Clarins in advance if it’s peak season.

Nightly rates at Le Mas Candille start from 460 euros ($540).

Every T+L hotel review is written by an editor or reporter who has stayed at the property, and each hotel selected aligns with our core values.