For years, I’d heard about Japow: that uniquely dry and fluffy powder only found in Japan. I was told it was the best in the world, but I didn’t fully understand until I clipped into my skis and glided through it.
I’ve skied mountains around the world, from the Canadian Rockies to the French Alps and beyond. Still, I’d never experienced powder quite like I did at Niseko United, a massive mountain made up of four interconnected resorts on the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido. I floated through the snow, watching it sail over my skis as light as cotton candy, and bounced along, almost buoyant, kicking up tufts of powdery clouds behind me.
The area’s unique powder, which falls in droves, is created by cold air from the Eurasian continent, which then flows over the warm currents of the Sea of Japan to form some of the driest and lightest snow on Earth. By the end of February 2024, the mountain had received more than 270 inches of snow (that’s more than 60 inches more than Breckenridge, the most popular ski resort in the United States). And I was told it had been a “bad” year.
The snow didn’t stop falling as I carved fresh lines during first tracks one morning. I was at the Hanazono Resort, home to some of the resort’s newest lifts, gliding down the wide-open Stairway to Heaven run. In Hanazono, the lifts welcomed skiers with heated seats and bubble covers, automatically opening and closing to keep you dry and warm. And runs were barely marked, making you feel like you were exploring rather than skiing in bounds.
After a few runs, we took a couple lifts to the top and scooted over to Niseko Tokyu Grand HIRAFU, the largest of the four resorts (and the most crowded). There, I weaved in and out of the trees on Furiko — a red run, equivalent to a blue in the U.S. — and enjoyed the Japanese version of a long groomer.
Unlike its counterparts, Hirafu offers the closest thing to a town, with several shops and restaurants along a hilly road leading up to the gondola and lifts. Once there, I checked into the beautifully designed and minimalistic Setsu Niseko and dropped my skis off at the hotel’s high-tech locker room before walking back into town, dotted with food trucks and views of Mount Yōtei — resembling a Hokkaido version of Mount Fuji.
But the best view I got of the iconic mountain was undoubtedly when the sun peaked out from behind the clouds at the third resort, Niseko Village. There, each hotel featured ski-in-ski-out access and ski valets, making it easy to explore the other half of the mountain.
After a morning spent there, I made my way to the top via the Wonderland “pizza box” lift (so-called because it’s — terrifyingly — the size of a small pizza box) and traversed over to the fourth resort of Annupuri. Featuring a good array of easy green runs, I spent some time playing before once again crossing back over to Niseko Village.
Niseko was easily one of the largest mountains I’d ever skied: it seemed you could ski a whole week and never manage to hit every single run, let alone the gated backcountry areas. But as extensive as the terrain was, its interconnected layout made it feel accessible.
Here’s your guide on skiing Japan’s Niseko United and how to experience the best the mountain has to offer.
Alison Fox/Travel + Leisure
When to Go
The ski season in Japan tends to last from late November through April or early May, but since the mountain relies on natural snow, it’s best to go when the powder is falling, which typically happens between late December and mid-February.
Where to Stay
Setsu Niseko: This luxury resort has everything you’d need, from ski lockers and a shuttle to the lifts to an on-property rental shop, multiple delicious restaurants, public and private onsens, and more. The rooms at the Setsu Niseko evoke a calming vibe thanks to Japanese-inspired minimalist design complete with warm woods, large picture windows, and even a traditional tatami space, and the public spaces are just as welcoming with a large, modern fireplace in the lobby and a fun kids play space for little ones to let off some steam post-slopes.
Hilton Niseko Village: This ski-in-ski-out property features an on-site rental shop and ski valet next to one of the resort’s main gondolas to make going from breakfast to the slopes as easy as walking outside. The Hilton Niseko Village is one of the larger properties in the area. While the rooms can be a bit on the older side, the hotel more than makes up for it with a large, bustling lobby bar and on-site activity center (complete with snowmobiling, snowshoeing, and more). But where the hotel really shines is its on-site onsen, which features unobstructed views of Mount Yōtei and an outdoor option next to a pond.
Hinode Hills Niseko Village: This hotel boasts well-appointed rooms and suites, including many with fully-equipped kitchens, laundry, and spacious living rooms to relax after a day on the mountain. Like other hotels in Niseko Village, the Hinode Hills is ski-in-ski-out and includes an on-site rental shop and ski valet, but unlike some others, it never feels crowded. The property has one restaurant (plus the ability to walk to another) along with a cozy in-house onsen.
Alison Fox/Travel + Leisure
Where to Eat
AFURI: This always-crowded, laid-back restaurant serves delicious bowls of ramen with handcrafted noodles made in-house with flavor combinations to suit any taste (including vegan options). Diners can choose a bowl of more traditional thin noodles, but the real standout was the chewy, thick noodles that absorbed the slightly spicy broth as you ate them. AFURI, which sits on the ground floor of the Setsu Niseko hotel, also has locations around the world, including in the U.S.
Gogyo Powered by Ippudo: After ordering from a tablet, steaming bowls of soup are served fast at Gogyo Powered by Ippudo. Try the classic Hakata Tonkotsu ramen or the creamy vegetarian soy milk and Japanese broth version for a silky, umami hit. And don’t forget to order a cup of rice to sop up any leftover broth (it’s too good not to).
Green Farm Cafe: At the Green Farm Cafe, located in the heart of Hirafu, you order at the counter, grab a seat, and wait for delicious dishes to arrive, including everything from avocado toast on homemade bread to the hearty Caesar salad complete with bacon and poached egg.
méli mélo -Yuki No Koe-: Settle in for the tasting menu at méli mélo on the ground floor of the Setsu Niseko. The restaurant blends French and Italian cooking with Japanese ingredients and serves a creative array of wagyū sushi with caviar, scallop crudo, a refreshing strawberry granita, and more. In the mornings, it’s transformed into an elegant breakfast buffet complete with coffees made to order.
Where to Apres Ski
Bar Gyu+: This Hirafu bar is known more simply as the “refrigerator bar” for its Coca-Cola vending machine entrance. Once you walk through the fridge, you enter a cozy space with a collection of Japanese whiskies and an inventive cocktail menu complete with warm drinks perfect for a cold day like the hot apple pie (made with house vanilla vodka, cinnamon, yoichi apple, lemon, and clove). Pro tip: get there early because Bar Gyu+ can summon lines down the block.
Mandala Club Niseko: This new offshoot of the Singapore hotspot sits in Niseko Village away from the hustle and bustle, but creates its own excitement on weekends thanks to a live DJ, drink deals on Champagne, sake, and more, and inventive cocktails like the shiso negroni. Upstairs, Mandala Club Niseko’s Popi’s restaurant serves up a fun dinner menu of fusion dishes like the Hokkaido sea urchin spaghettini.
Alison Fox/Travel + Leisure
Off-mountain Activities
Snowmobiling: In the winter, Niseko Village transforms its golf course into a winter activity center, welcoming guests to try their hand at everything from snow rafting and horse-drawn sleigh rides to snowshoeing and more. But for those who want to go a bit faster, hop on board a snowmobile and zoom across the course, zig-zagging your way toward a beautiful view of Mount Yōtei. The one-hour course is perfect for first-time snowmobilers since the route is already carved out, and there’s no real off-roading.
Snowshoeing: Snowshoeing is available throughout Niseko, including in Niseko Village and Hanazono. The relaxed activity gives you another perspective on Japan’s infamous powder as you wade through freshly fallen snow and walk through the quiet, peaceful woods.
Snow tubing: Hanazono offers a small tubing park at the base of the mountain, complete with a magic carpet lift for kids — and kids at heart. Book an hour-long session for just 4,200 yen ($28.16) per tube for a fun way to spend some time off the slopes.
How to Ride
Tickets: Niseko United offers several lift ticket options, including an all-mountain pass allowing skiers and riders to access each of the four resorts simultaneously. During the high season, a one-day all-mountain pass starts at 10,500 yen ($70.40).
Niseko United is also on the Ikon Pass and the Mountain Collective pass, which can each be redeemed for all-mountain lift tickets. The number of days depends on the type of pass members have.
Rentals: There are several places to get rentals (including gear and accessories like jackets or ski pants), depending on where visitors are staying. In Hirafu, for example, Rhythm Japan has more than one location, and there’s another rental shop in the Mountain Center Annex right next to the gondola. And in Niseko Village, hotels each have their own on-site rental shops.
Mountain Stats
Niseko is made up of four different resorts that can all be accessed on the same lift ticket. The resorts are all interconnected from the top of Niseko Annupuri and features more than 2,800 skiable acres combined.
There are runs for every level, with 25 percent listed as advanced black runs, 34 percent as intermediate red runs, and 41 percent as beginner green runs. In total, there are 31 lifts, including several gondolas.
Programming: Each resort offers its own ski and snowboard lessons, from beginner lessons to all-mountain explorer options. In Hanazono, visitors can also sign up for a Diamond X Pro guide, which includes first tracks for full-day guests.
