There’s a distinct blue color that hits a mountain just before the sun comes over the peak. It’s a hue skiers and snowboarders know well, as it’s particularly vibrant in the winter. And on a cold November day in Arosa, Switzerland, the blue was pure magic.
In 2023, I visited the quaint little ski town nestled high in the Schanfigg Valley in the Swiss canton of Graubünden for an annual ski event like no other: Private Mountain Day with Tschuggen Grand Hotel. Just as the name suggests, the event allows hotel guests to have exclusive access to the Arosa Lenzerheide ski region before it opens to the public for one glorious day.
As we took the train from Zurich, the snow began to fall, quickly blanketing the landscape in a thick, fluffy layer — so much so that we worried we wouldn’t actually make it to the mountain. But make it we did, and upon arrival, the stoke level was at an all-time high.
In the morning, we were whisked away on the hotel’s private gondola to the top of the mountain, where we were greeted with a festive atmosphere that included plenty of hot cocoa, warm fondue, and jovial spirits. Yes, the trails were open too, and with just a handful of people there, everyone could take wide turns and enjoy the views at their own pace before heading into the mountain’s party tram for an après-ski event, complete with a DJ, dancing, and plenty of drinks.
The best part is that anyone can book the private mountain experience through the hotel for stays between Nov. 28 to Dec. 1, 2024. As part of the stay, guests will enjoy that exclusive access, with one day dedicated entirely to only Tschuggen Grand Hotel guests, along with bites at the hotel’s La Brezza restaurant from Chef Marco Campanella, named this year’s “Chef of the Year” by the Swiss edition of the Gault Millau gastronomy guide book.
“Arosa offers a unique combination of snow reliability and sun exposure early in the season, making it an ideal destination for winter sports enthusiasts,” Silvana Schlösser, the general manager at the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, shared. “It’s the perfect spot for both seasoned skiers and those just discovering their passion for the mountains.”
And while opening weekend is certainly something to experience, Schlösser added that the rest of the winter season offers something special, too. “Mid-January and late February are fantastic times to experience Arosa,” Schlösser noted. “The slopes are in excellent condition, the après-ski scene is vibrant, and the crowds are lighter than during peak holiday periods. For those looking for a quieter, more exclusive winter escape, March is also a great time with still-perfect conditions as we are more than 1,800 meters above sea level, so there is still a lot of powder during these times.”
Here’s how to experience Arosa this ski season.
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When to Go
The ski season in Arosa typically runs from late November to late April. For prime snow conditions, skiers and riders should plot out a trip for mid-January to early March when the resort experiences peak snowfall. But really, the entire season is spectacular, as those who come in December or late March will be rewarded with fewer crowds — and perhaps a few spring skiing days where all you need is a light sweater. November and December are special times to visit, too as the area is exceptionally festive for the holiday season.
Where to Stay
Courtesy of Tschuggen Mountain Loft
Tschuggen Grand Hotel
Those seeking a luxurious retreat need not look further than the Tschuggen Grand Hotel. The five-star property has ski-in, ski-out access thanks to its private gondola (which comes with ultra-plush bucket seats and floor-to-ceiling windows for a gorgeous view all the way), along with a famed 5,000-square-foot spa, complete with indoor and outdoor pools, saunas, and steam baths. And, its updated suites include in-room saunas for the ultimate in relaxation.
Valsana Hotel Arosa
The Valsana Hotel is a sustainability-focused hotel that doesn’t skimp on style. The accommodation overlooks Lake Obersee and offers easy access to both the slopes and the town. It also boasts its own wellness center with a state-of-the-art gym, yoga studio, and an indoor pool. And the hotel is dog-friendly, making it the perfect fit for anyone traveling with a four-legged friend.
Waldhotel Arosa
Find a bit more rustic charm at the four-star Waldhotel Arosa. Its modern-meets-minimalist interior includes plenty of pinewood and oakwood, mirroring the scene out of the massive picture windows. And it’s just a quick ride away from the mountains, with its own spa and delicious dining to boot.
Where to Eat
Weisshorngipfel
Make your way to the summit of the Weisshorn to find Weisshorngipfel, a mountaintop restaurant with breathtaking views and tasty Swiss fare. The restaurant, only accessible via cable car, is ideal for a midday ski break so you can fill your belly with rösti and fondue before cruising down the mountain again.
Guterschuppen
For a delightful brunch in a cozy atmosphere, book a table at Guterschuppen. The restaurant, located in town, has a menu filled with Swiss and globally inspired bites, including everything from shakshuka to kürbissuppe, a German pumpkin soup that will warm your soul.
The Basement
Get one more taste of Swiss life at The Basement inside the Tschuggen Grand Hotel. The low-key spot features “grandma’s recipes” made from locally sourced ingredients, including a raclette burger, rösti, and fondue.
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Where to Après-ski
Kuhbar
Ski directly into Kuhbar for an après drink. The bar, located right on the slopes, is well-known as being one of the liveliest dives in Arosa. Not only can you get a pint (or two), but you get to do it with gorgeous views of the mountains, too.
Strumpfbar
Find a more low-key après setting at the Strumpfbar at the Arosa Vetter Hotel. Here, you can order essentially any drink you’d like from its extensive wine and cocktail menu, though really, you can never go wrong with a mulled wine after skiing.
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Off-mountain Activities
Shred the toboggan trails.
On our trip to Arosa, the snow was so heavy that we actually couldn’t ski a second day due to safety concerns. But that was fine with us, as we were able to explore Arosa’s network of toboggan runs, including the famed Prätschli run.
Go for a winter hike.
There are nearly 20 miles of winter hiking trails sprinkled around Arosa that are ideal for non-skiers or those looking for an off day. It’s a true choose-your-own-adventure activity, as you can pick from easy lakeside walks or challenging alpine hikes.
Take an ice bath.
Have the ultimate refreshing experience by taking the plunge with an ice bath in Arosa. Travelers can take part in a full ice bath session with Eisbadi, where the goal is to stay in the water for a full minute.
How to Ride
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Tickets
Arosa Lenzerheide has a range of ticket options, including single-day passes, multi-day passes, discounted family passes, and afternoon passes, which start at just $24. Ticket prices vary depending on the time of year, so check the ticket office before you book.
Rentals
There are plenty of rental companies in Arosa with high-quality gear, so you can pack lightly and make the most of your time at the mountain. There are several Intersport locations around town that will hook you up with exactly what you need.
Skiing and Snowboarding
As On the Snow explains, there are 139 miles of trails to explore and 43 lifts to help you access all that terrain. The mountain is made up of 49 percent beginner runs, 39 percent advanced/intermediate runs, and 12 percent expert runs. The mountain also offers night skiing down select trails for anyone hoping to add an additional adrenaline rush. And while its trails can be challenging, it’s still a perfect place to bring kids, thanks to the ABC Snow Sports School, which offers lessons and activities designed for kids under 17.
