Berkeley Springs, West Virginia, is often credited as having America’s first spa, but the town doesn’t actually exist. “Many folks here say Berkeley Springs is more of a state of mind than a place,” says Dustin “Dusty” Martin, executive director of Travel Berkeley Springs.
Even though the town of Berkeley Springs isn’t technically real, many businesses still list it as their address. The town’s two James Beard Award nominees—chefs Damian Heath and Scott Collinash—say they’re from Berkeley Springs, and you’ll still get mail delivered to the nonexistent destination. But if you get a speeding ticket, you’ll pay the Town of Bath, West Virginia.
“It always catches everyone by surprise that the town is the Town of Bath,” says Greg Schene, the current mayor of Bath. “Berkeley Springs, I like to say, is kind of the greater area.” It’s a quirky nuance that you can use either name interchangeably to talk about the same place.
The Town of Bath was officially founded in 1776, named after the famous spas in Bath, England, and at the 2020 census reported around 750 residents. George Washington first visited the area in 1748 as a land surveyor and was a frequent visitor to the warm springs for years, even buying land in town.
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Just like its counterpart abroad, this Bath has natural mineral warm springs that have been in use for centuries. “America’s first spa” and the historic Roman-style baths are still one of the major draws for visiting this idyllic town nestled in the mountains of West Virginia’s Eastern Panhandle.
As for the dual identity? The natural springs have long been known as Berkeley Springs, and when the post office needed to distinguish between two Baths in Virginia—West Virginia didn’t become a state until 1863—the town decided to more formally adopt the springs’ name.
“[The post service] could not assign two ZIP codes the same name,” explains Martin. “Our city leaders chose the name of the ZIP code to be Berkeley Springs, as we were known for the springs in the area, and at the time we were in Berkeley County.”
Less than a two-hour drive from Baltimore, Maryland, or just over three from Philadelphia, Berkeley Springs offers more than just its famous natural springs. Eat highly acclaimed meals, go on a hike or mountain bike ride, stay at the mayor’s bed-and-breakfast, or opt to spend the whole weekend “taking the waters” at the springs, as the locals say.
Be careful, though, Schene says the town has a way of drawing people in. “You can’t really understand it until you’re here, and then once you’re here, you love it,” he shares. “People understand, and they want to move here and live here and start a business here.”
What to Do in Berkeley Springs
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The obvious thing to do when you’re in town is visit the warm springs. They run at a consistent 74.3 degrees Fahrenheit, but water in the bathhouse is heated between 100 and 102 degrees Fahrenheit. You can opt to “take the waters” in the Old Roman Bathhouse that’s been in operation since 1815 and offers family-style bathing, or you can book one of the private baths in the main bathhouse. There’s no way to book online, so you’ll need to call the Berkeley Springs State Park to make an appointment.
There’s also a fun nod to the first president’s love of the springs—at the state park, you’ll find an outdoor stone tub dubbed “George Washington’s Bath Tub.” It’s even safe to drink directly from the springs, and Schene says “folks can come in and take as much water as they want.”
Visit Berkely Springs
After relaxing in the baths, choose between continuing your spa adventures in one of the well-known spots in town, like the Atasia Spa for a massage or facial, or head to nearby Cacapon Resort State Park for hiking and mountain biking. There are more than 50 miles of hiking trails in the park, as well as 30-plus miles for mountain biking.
“You’ll also have the opportunity to go on the Cacapon River,” says Schene. “The water is crystal clear for kayaking or tubing down the river on a sunny afternoon.” Strolling downtown, you’ll find a host of antique stores like the Berkeley Springs Antique Mall, as well as whimsical gift shops like Inspired Chaos.
Visit Berkely Springs
To refuel, try Lot 12 Public House. Chef and owner Damian Heath has accumulated an impressive number of James Beard nominations for his seasonally inspired upscale comfort food. “It’s the level of restaurant you’d find in a metropolitan area,” says Schene. “You’re getting a five-star experience at a three-star price.”
Heath recommends making a stop at the Berkeley Springs Farmers Market, which happens every Sunday in April through November, “to get the real experience of the local culture and community vibe.” Other popular dining spots include Proof on Washington, where you can try a Cherry Bounce—a take on George Washington’s favorite cordial with sour cherries, warming spices, and whiskey—and The Vine Trattoria for an Italian-meets-Mediterranean spread. For a grab-and-go option, stop by the Fleur de Lis Cheese Shop for sandwiches or charcuterie boxes.
It’s worth spending a weekend in Berkeley Springs to take full advantage of all the activities the area has to offer. Spend the night at Mayor Greg’s five-bedroom bed-and-breakfast, Mendenhall 1884. Schene and his wife live next door and often hang out with guests, and he offers “walk and talks” throughout town for visitors as well.
The Grand Castalian Inn
Down the street, The Country Inn, first opened in 1933, is a centrally located property with 60 guest rooms and suites. “Within the Town of Bath, it’s the obvious choice for staying,” says Martin, noting its “amazing amenities at an extremely affordable price.” The Grand Castalian Inn is another bed-and-breakfast option in town. The elegant property opened earlier this year following an extensive renovation and hosts Victorian-themed teas on select days.
For a town that doesn’t exist, Berkeley Springs is the perfect weekend getaway for those looking to relax and soak in both history and hospitality.
